Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments across the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Around the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve open space from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Across the City
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a fence on